Christmas Wonderland in Austria

Christmas tree ornament

Is it too early to write about Christmas?

Finally, one of my greatest wishes came true! After years and years of being the craziest and most enthusiastic Christmas-obsessed individual around, terrorizing everyone with holiday preparations and festive spirit long before they were due, my family finally granted me the wish and organized a weekend trip to Vienna and Graz, to visit some of their Christmas markets that rank among the most famous ones in Europe. I was really excited about “Christmas coming early this year” in a literal sense, and  the experience really did not disappoint me one bit – for two lovely days, in two beautiful Austrian cities, I have lived Christmas with all my senses. 

Viennese street

As a part of our two-day Christmas warm-up adventure, we spent a day in Vienna, visiting the famous markets on Stephansplatz and in front of the Rathaus, and a day in Graz, where we spent a lazy Sunday wandering around town and stopping at the Christmas Market in front of the City hall.

Christmas market in front of the City Hall, ViennaChristmas Market stalls, Graz

The weather was perfect for the occasion – it smelled like winter and snow, but was not too cold to prevent us from spending hours out in the open, it was crowded but not too crowded to enjoy strolling around stalls and although Christmas lights and decorations were not fully lit up yet (this happens around December 6th), the festive, Christmasy atmosphere was present everywhere I looked.

Festive Vienna full of peopleHorses on St Stephen's SquareUpside-down trees, GrazChristmas stalls, Vienna Christmas Market Holiday lights, City Hall park, Vienna

The charm of Christmas markets for me is in the warm, fuzzy feeling that overcomes you, one that makes your eyes glow and that makes you smile all the time, and that fills and engages all your senses. Visiting Vienna and Graz Christmas markets, I could feel it everywhere…

Holiday ornaments, a detailHo ho ho!

In the smell of spicy mulled wine, strong punch, chestnuts and traditional Austrian food found in so many stalls, such as Wursts (sausages), giant beer pretzels, cotton candy and Zuckermandeln (sugared almonds)…

Christmas market stalls

In the sight of thousands of Christmas lights lighting up the Christmas village in front of Vienna’s Rathaus, flickering in all shapes and sizes, illuminating the outlines of the majestic city hall building and almost every tree in the park…

Christmas lights, ViennaFestive Rathaus, Vienna Candle decorations, Vienna

In the murmur of excited visitors and shouts of children experiencing their Christmas fairy tales or crying out because they saw a stuffed toy or a balloon they really wanted…

Balloons!Stuffed reindeersThe Rathaus Christmas Market, Vienna

In the taste of hot mulled wine burning our tongues, sweet Maroni, gingerbread cookies or waffles…

Gingerbread houseHoliday specialties, Vienna

And in the feel of the texture of Christmas ornaments, coming in all shapes, sizes and materials: from rustic, wooden ones, to durable plastic ones or elegant, expensive glass ones that felt so fragile under my numb, frozen fingers that I was sure that, despite being extra careful, I might end up breaking them.  

Christmas ornaments in whiteNutcrackersSchlossberg tree ornaments, GrazA detailChristmas tree ornaments in all shapes and sizes

Some say that Christmas markets in Austria, just like the ones in other parts of Europe, have lost their charm. That they have lost their traditional, crafty atmosphere and that typical, hand-made products gave way to imported goods of inferior quality. That they have become kitschy traps for tourists, too crowded and too expensive. It may all be right, in a way. But to tell you the truth, I didn’t notice. Or is it that I noticed, but didn’t mind? Because I got even more than I hoped for from these Christmas markets, and I had really high expectations. I loved the dizzying chaos of people, sounds, smells, the whirl of lights, colors and ornaments; the sea of smiling faces, joyful children and wonderful winter sights; and the priceless atmosphere of festiveness and joy that is at the same time free and completely priceless. Because Christmas was never really supposed to be about expensive ornaments in the first place, right?

Christmas cheer, ViennaA detail Graz Christmas marketNothing without the Christmas train, Graz

So today, exactly one month before Christmas, I wish you all spend the following thirty days with your loved ones, laughing, having fun, baking, singing, celebrating and decorating. Enjoy your holiday preparations and if you can, toast the holidays with a cup of mulled wine wherever you are!

I wish you all wonderful holidays!

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